A Day of Flavor, Friendship, and Ocean Views
Gijang Haenyeo Village Busan coastline has a lot to offer — from steep cliffs and quiet harbors to trendy cafés and peaceful beaches. While we enjoy finding lesser-known spots, sometimes it’s just nice to take it easy, spend time with good company, and enjoy whatever the day brings. Yesterday turned out to be exactly that.
We were invited by two families we’ve stayed in touch with since our Waypoint Education days in the Netherlands. Both have children who used our guidance to apply for universities there. One is now studying at Hanze University in Groningen, and the other just completed her first year, happily and successfully. Their parents kindly invited us for lunch by the sea — a perfect chance to catch up and share stories.
Our destination was a place with a memorable name: Big-Handed Grandma’s House (손 큰 할매네), a simple but much-loved seafood restaurant in Gijang Haenyeo Village. The name refers to a Korean expression about generosity — people with “big hands” don’t skimp when it comes to serving food. And indeed, that’s exactly what we found: fresh, traditional dishes served in a warm, no-frills setting.
Gijang Haenyeo Village takes its name from Korea’s famous haenyeo, the older women who still dive — without oxygen tanks — to collect seafood like abalone, sea urchins, and seaweed. It’s a tough and time-honored tradition. Fewer women take up the job these days, but here the spirit lives on. The village itself feels real and unpolished — fishing boats, sea breeze, and the quiet bustle of a working harbor.
Now, a bit of a personal side note. For years, I avoided shellfish completely. After getting sick a couple of times long ago, a doctor suspected an allergy and warned me not to take risks. So, for decades, I avoided oysters, mussels, and the like. But recently, I decided to get tested. As it turns out, I’m not allergic to shellfish at all. The surprise? A mild allergy to milk, bread, and peanut butter — things I’ve eaten all my life.
So yesterday’s lunch became more than just a good meal. I cautiously — and then quite enthusiastically — tried everything: abalone, venus clams, sea cucumber (prepared in a Korean marinade), even a bit of fresh octopus. The highlight was a bowl of abalone porridge — green from the seaweed the abalone had eaten, comforting and full of flavor. It reminded me a bit of Dutch pea soup, though the taste was completely different.
The meal felt like a small celebration — of friendship, of good food, and perhaps of stepping past an old fear. The setting was charming, and the laughter at the table made it all the more special.
Afterwards, we drove up the coast to Waveon Coffee, a beautifully designed café situated on a cliff with open views over the East Sea. On weekends it’s busy, but we found a lovely spot on the rooftop terrace. Despite the hot and humid weather — well over 30 degrees — the sea breeze made it more than bearable. Iced coffee in hand, we just sat and took it all in.
Right next to the café is a quiet little beach. It looked inviting, and I promised myself to come back when the heat dies down a bit.
So no, this wasn’t a grand or glamorous day out — but it was real, rich in flavor and feeling, and exactly what we needed. Luxurious in a way when it concerns the Wave On coffee place, but that’s from time to time very nice as well!. Gijang may not be the most obvious choice for a Sunday, but if you’re up for something local, relaxed, and meaningful, I’d say it’s well worth the trip.
Maybe join us next time? You’re always welcome.